The successful Himalayan expedition celebrated the great tradition of the Venetian bootmaker and allowed the Alpinists involved to field-test the new Karka Boots at high altitudes.
A love for the mountains that has spanned three generations, led by a company owner who conquers the world's most breathtaking peaks every chance he gets. To celebrate 85 years of footwear culture and technical innovation applied to outdoor equipment, Marco Zamberlan and an expedition team consisting of Alpinists Caio Pellizzari, Stelvio Frigo, Vlad Moroz, and Vasily Voloshin reached the summit of Ama Dablam (6,814 meters), one of the most mesmerizing mountains in the Himalayan range.
Back in 1929, it was grandfather Giuseppe Zamberlan who started the cobbling business, developing the artisan craftsmanship of mountaineering boots and climbing shoes thanks to a direct relationship with the rugged terrain of the Little Dolomites. Today, Zamberlan exports over 90% of its production to more than 50 countries worldwide, and the family still oversees every phase of the bootmaking process firsthand: design, manufacturing, distribution, and—precisely—testing. We met with Marco Zamberlan upon his return from the successful expedition in Nepal.
1) Hi Marco, congratulations on the successful expedition to Ama Dablam. Can you tell us how it went?
The expedition went very well; everyone had a great time, and there were no major issues. It was an enriching experience that left a lasting impression on all of us. We will definitely do it again. Even though Nepal has been changing in recent years due to high tourist numbers and commercial expeditions, I believe it remains one of the most beautiful places on Earth for an Alpinist, given its mountains, landscapes, and people.
We made the actual ascent of Ama Dablam starting from base camp, which was quite crowded. However, the trek we took to reach base camp followed one of the side valleys outside the main Khumbu Valley [the main route leading from base camp to Everest - Ed.] specifically to avoid the large tour groups and caravans. Rather than for exploration purposes, this choice was driven by our desire to spend time just among ourselves, given the long-standing friendship that binds us together.
2) Three Italians and two Russians: how were the expedition members chosen?
First and foremost, friendship plays a fundamental role. In these types of adventures, a sort of brotherhood is forged, allowing you to share the beautiful moments and face the toughest challenges together. For Zamberlan's 85th anniversary, we extended the invitation to international members: our Russian friends Vlad Moroz and Vasily Voloshin from Team RedFox Outdoor Equipment were the first to sign up, while some Japanese friends had to back out at the last minute. From an organizational standpoint, the number of members in an expedition doesn't change much; everyone must be perfectly autonomous in managing themselves and capable of tackling every phase of the climb.
3) Why did you choose this specific mountain for the 85th-anniversary celebratory climb? Were there substantial differences compared to your previous two expeditions?
Ama Dablam is one of the most beautiful mountains in the Himalayas, and even though it is not an 8,000m peak, it features sections that can be even more complicated from a technical standpoint, requiring specialized preparation. For a major milestone like the 85th anniversary of a company in the outdoor world, we felt that the mountain’s spectacular aesthetics and the technical profile of the climb made Ama Dablam the most fitting objective. In the end, the ascent proved to be technically more demanding than our previous ones: we tackled the 7,000m of Aconcagua, for example, along the normal route, avoiding major technical difficulties. The main issue there, if anything, was the bitter cold.
4) Speaking of temperatures, what was the situation like on Ama Dablam?
The temperatures weren't prohibitive; we were probably looking at around -17°C to -20°C, mostly at night. There is a massive thermal shift: during the day, with the sun high, we experienced the warmest hours from 9 AM until 4 PM or 5 PM. At noon, for instance, it gets very hot, which also triggers the issue of avalanches.
5) Ama Dablam means "mother's necklace," theoretically due to its embracing shape. Is it really that reassuring when seen from up there? Did you experience moments of discouragement or real fear?
No, it’s not reassuring at all! In fact, I must say it is quite terrifying because of its exposure and the difficulty of the ascent. Ama Dablam is one of the most scenic Himalayan mountains, similar in physical structure to our Matterhorn—a pyramid shape, but much higher. The overall dimensions are also vastly larger. The mountain has very sharp ridges, and one of these forms the main climbing route. Looking at it from below, I can confirm it is very frightening; and from above as well, especially when you are in the high camps, you feel a deep sense of awe and awe-inspiring dread. This is also why it is such a highly sought-after and frequented destination.
We didn't really have major moments of discouragement. Our biggest worry was the influx of Alpinists climbing above us and the potential for them to dislodge rocks or debris. Additionally, there were issues with the fixed ropes: low down they were in terrible shape, and high up they practically didn't exist. From Camp 2 upward, the mountain had not yet been climbed that season, so it had to be entirely equipped—an operation usually handled by the Nepalese Sherpas, not by foreigners. Unfortunately, a few days before our expedition, a 42-year-old French Alpinist died on the same route; a fixed rope gave way, and he fell. As for our expedition, we were fortunate: one of our guides dislocated his shoulder, and one of the Russians had some ankle issues due to a fall. But aside from these incidents, everything went exceptionally well.
6) Let's talk about gear: on what basis do you choose your equipment? What did you bring with you in this case?
Gear selection depends heavily on the technical difficulty of the climb, the altitude of the mountain, and the low temperatures you expect to face. In the case of footwear, we had a brand-new product to test firsthand: the entire expedition was equipped with the new Zamberlan Karka model, an automatic crampon-compatible high-altitude boot featuring a removable inner liner. The product proved to be incredibly comfortable, warm, and high-performing. The whole group was very satisfied, and for some, the boot was actually too warm (which, besides being a testament to its quality, probably depended on the relatively mild temperatures we encountered). Just like with the 6000 Karka RR, the data gathered during a climb is always invaluable for improving subsequent production runs. Right from base camp, we debrief with the other Alpinists to bring feedback back to our technical department that only direct experience can provide—from thermal insulation to the overall fit of the boot. Let's just say that the foot, being constantly submerged in snow, is the most delicate part of the body and the most at risk for frostbite.
7) What about the rest of your equipment?
High-quality high-altitude gloves and a comfortable, lightweight down suit are absolute essentials. The danger is always frostbite, so the suit must not hinder your movements and must be suitable for the night as well, meaning you keep it on even while sleeping.
8) What are the most important aspects that should define the physical preparation of an Alpinist tackling a 6,800m peak?
Physical training is non-negotiable when taking on an endeavor like this. However, a crucial aspect is acclimatization—the ability to gradually adapt your body to the altitude. If you are in Nepal at high altitudes, your body must be allowed to acclimatize step-by-step, without forcing the pace. Generally, you attempt to climb higher and then return to sleep a bit lower down, specifically to achieve a gradual adaptation to both the temperatures and to prevent mountain sickness, meaning the risks of pulmonary edema and cerebral edema. Staying hydrated, proper nutrition, and taking mineral salts are also incredibly important.
Regardless, we did the bulk of our conditioning right on Ama Dablam, through the trekking up to 5,300m or by climbing Lobuche Peak, which sits at 6,100m.
9) The outcome of the expedition: you met your targeted altitude (the 6,814m summit) and timeline (around 20 days). Was the weather lenient?
Yes, excluding three days of bad weather that kept us pinned down in our tents, the weather was on our side. There were two avalanches, but fortunately, they occurred far outside our line of ascent, not along the route we traveled. As I mentioned, the only unexpected hurdles were the lack of fixed ropes on the upper sections, which we had to fix ourselves, and the damaged, unsafe ropes on the lower sections.
10) A few curiosities. How do you handle provisions? How do you sleep at night? What are the sounds and light like up there?
Up to base camp, we had a Nepalese cook who rotated meat, rice, eggs, and soups. For the high camps, we managed mostly on freeze-dried soups that we brought with us. We generally slept well at night, aside from a few sleepless nights due to the cold. There are no distinct noises, except for the wind, but of course, tents are pitched in the most sheltered areas. Full moon nights create a truly magical atmosphere, reflecting all the light onto the snow—an extremely evocative and fascinating scenery, especially when paired with the starry sky.
11) A man of the mountains, but also a businessman: how do you manage to balance both roles?
I wish I could balance them better, meaning I wish I had more time to dedicate to experiences that truly fulfill your soul, like the one we just experienced in Nepal. This is the kind of expedition we undertake every 5 years. However, since we have excellent staff back at the company, I can still manage to carve out some time away.
12) Future projects, climbs, or initiatives?
We will likely head to Pakistan next, which features an environment similar to the Himalayas with very high peaks. Or Patagonia, where the summits reach around 4,000m but are highly technical, involving much more rock climbing. We will keep you posted... hopefully very soon!